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Goya's Madrid When we visit Madrid, many stages in the history of the city come to mind. In Madrid we can find traces of its beginning as a small village all the way to the present. Why then focus on Goya’s Madrid, why on the 18th century? Goya’s Madrid was the focus of my two theses at the university, and for those of us lucky enough to have spent some time in Madrid, wandering through the Prado and looking at its buildings and monuments, the answer is easy. It was during the 18th century that Madrid changed into the European city we see today. The evolution from a provincial capital into a modern city can be attributed largely to the Bourbons, mostly to Charles III, an enlightened King who dedicated himself to improving the city. During his administration, known as “The Golden Age of Madrid,” he built the Museum of Natural History (today the Prado Museum), the Paseo del Prado with Cibeles and Neptune, the Retiro Park, and the Paseo de la Florida. These sites have become trademarks of Madrid. Urban and industrial development were accompanied by cultural progress, religious reformation and a change in civil life. Theater, tertulias (evening parties) and daily paseos became a must for aristocrats and the growing bourgeoisie, who wanted to participate in the new social atmosphere in Madrid. Goya’s paintings are a testimony on canvas of 18th century Madrid. Portraits of royal families, aristocrats, popular characters, activities and festivities provide the viewer with a visual guide to daily life in Madrid during this period. This itinerary, thus, is focused on a pivotal period in the development of Madrid. We have included visits to the old Madrid, the Madrid of the Hapsburgs, in order to understand the development of this society, and to better comprehend that many 17th century customs and religious festivities were not abandoned, but were simply adapted and incorporated into the new society. In modern Madrid, a busy and lively city, some traditional and popular activities such as socializing in public places and strolling along the paseos are similar to those existing 300 years ago. By walking those paseos and parks, dining at fashionable bars and traditional restaurants we will experience the vibrant atmosphere of this city while we establish the link between Madrid’s past and present. I can never
leave Madrid without enjoying a cup of thick chocolate con churros;
an addiction that I share with many Madrileños. While they
chat about their daily activities and future plans, I am reminded
of those 18th century ladies taking their chocolate in the morning
and in the afternoon at the tertulias. What a treat! Maria
E. Soldevila GOYA’S MADRID Day 1: Meeting at the hotel Morning:
Free Welcome Lunch: Café Gijón. Founded in 1888, the café is one of the most popular spots in Madrid. During the 1920’s it became the site for the literary elite; writers such as Pablo Neruda and Federico García Lorca were frequent clients. Afternoon: Walk through modern Madrid. North of Cibeles begins the three-lined avenue Paseo de Recoletos. The Paseo was planned in 1770 as an extension of the Paseo del Prado but it really took off after 1840 when it became a fashionable street. Today it is a busy artery leading to the Paseo de la Castellana. The Paseo de
la Castellana is the extension of the Recoletos. It has become Madrid’s
trendy boulevard, packed with glass towers and skyscrapers housing
big banks and businesses. This area has also chic shops, restaurants,
and bars. The highlight of the Paseo is the Museum of Outdoor Sculpture
with works by Joan Miró, Henry Moore and Eduardo Chillida,
among others. Day 2: Morning:
Museo del Prado – Private Tour through Velázquez and
Goya Rooms Morning: Visit Museo del Prado. Private guided tour through Velázquez and Goya’s Rooms. The Prado is one of the largest and most celebrated museums in the world with a collection of more than 7,000 paintings (only 1,000 are exhibited.) It began as a small royal collection and was enhanced by the Hapsburg and later by the Bourbon monarchs. Diego Velázquez (1599-1660) is considered by many Spaniards the greatest painter in the history of art. He was appointed painter to the King during the reign of Philip IV (1621-65), when he was 24 years old. Velázquez’s Las Meninas, the museum’s most famous painting, was voted the World’s Greatest Painting in 1985 by a poll of artists and critics. The painting is so complex and yet so beautiful that it has been the object of discussion for centuries. Today, it continues to be debated. Hanging in the Velázquez rooms are also The Drunkards, The Tapestry Weavers, and The Surrender of Breda. Velázquez was a great source of inspiration for Francisco de Goya y Lucientes (1746-1828). Like Velázquez, Goya held the title of Court Painter and Painter to the King, in this case, during the reign of Charles IV (1788-1808). Goya ranks with Velázquez and El Greco among the three most famous Spanish artists; he is also considered the father of Modern art. The Prado has the largest collection of Goya’s works. The jewel of the collection is the much-reproduced Third of May. Goya’s Third of May 1808, has no precedent in the history of art; nothing like it had ever been painted before. The expression of the victim who has one second left to live, his face illuminated by a lantern, and his arms in a Christ-like position create an emotional atmosphere only to be seen again in Goya’s series of prints, The Disasters of War, also exhibited at the Prado. Hanging in adjacent rooms are Goya’s cartoons, designs for tapestries to be made by the Royal Tapestry Manufactory. These images, with their vivid colors and pastoral scenes, provide the viewer with a sense of joy. The cartoon Saint Isidro’s Prairie is a perfect representation of 18th century Madrid. Goya not only portrayed Madrileños celebrating their Patron Saint Day, but he also conveyed the secularization process that these celebrations underwent during this period. Goya’s famous Clothed Maja and Naked Maja as well as his nightmarish Black paintings are also exhibited.
Morning:
Puerta del Sol – Plaza Mayor – Colegiata de San Isidro Morning: The Puerta del Sol – Plaza Mayor – Colegiata San Isidro. The Puerta del Sol (Sun Gate) is the center of life in Madrid, and probably in Spain. Although a Sun decorating one of the towers and the gate, dating from 1478, are long gone, the area remains the liveliest in Madrid. In the past it has been the stage for protests. Among the most famous revolts is that of the 2nd of May 1808, when Napoleon’s Egyptian cavalry brutally attacked a rioting mob. Goya immortalized this event in his painting The Second of May 1808, which he painted together with its companion, the famous The Third of May 1808. Today, the Puerta del Sol is still the center of demonstrations, petition signings, etc. In 1986 a new pedestrian area was added, and a statue of Charles III (1759-1788), the great benefactor of Madrid, was installed at the center. The construction of the Plaza Mayor began in 1617, during the reign of Philip III (1528-1621). The inauguration coincided with the beatification in 1620 of Saint Isidro, Patron Saint of Madrid. After several fires, the plaza acquired the shape it has today. Many kings of Spain were crowned here before huge crowds. The kings often used the Plaza to preside over fiestas, bullfights, carnivals, and the Inquisition’s autos de fé: public trials and punishment of “heretics.” The Colegiata de San Isidro served as Madrid’s Cathedral until 1992 when the Almudena took over. This twin-towered church, began in 1620, served as Jesuit headquarter in Spain for a century. Golden Age writers, such as Calderón de la Barca and Lope de Vega, were schooled in this Colegiata. When Charles III expelled the Jesuits from Spain in 1767, the church was rededicated to Saint Isidro, Patron Saint of Madrid. Saint Isidro, a 12th century humble ploughman, was well known for his exceptional piety. His miracles are mostly related to his ability to find water. He and his wife, Santa Maria de La Cabeza, are buried over the high altar, and their remains were paraded around Madrid whenever it suffered from drought. Saint Isidro is celebrated on the 15th of May with a Romeria (parade). On this occasion Madrileños cross the River Manzanares to drink holy water and then picnic at Saint Isidro’s Prairie. During the 18th century, the Romeria became extremely popular, and artists and writers left testimony to the importance of these celebrations. Goya painted two cartoons for tapestries portraying Saint Isidro’s Prairie. Unfortunately, they were never made into tapestries. Had these images been woven, they would have become the largest tapestries ever made by the Royal Tapestry Factory. Evening:
Calle Mayor - Chocolate con Churros at Churrería San Gines A Madrid specialty is “chocolate con churros” a thick chocolate pudding garnished with Cruller-like sticks of fried batter. San Gines is a traditional place to indulge in this delicious treat.
Morning:
Fábrica Real de Tapices (Royal Tapestry Manufactory). Morning: Fábrica Real de Tapices. Tapestries from all Madrid’s Royal residences as well as from the Ritz Hotel were made here. Founded in the 1710s by Philip V as Spain’s response to Paris Gobelins, its weavers have served the Spanish elite’s love for fine decorative pictorial tapestries. Goya worked for the Tapestry Manufactory in his early years (1775-80), and his cartoons are its best known productions. Today the tapestries still hang in palaces, and the cartoons hang at the Prado Museum. Afternoon: San Antonio de la Florida. San Antonio de la Florida was relocated twice, and finally built on this site between 1792-98. The architect was Felipe Fontana and Francisco de Goya was in charge of the decoration. The cult to San Antonio, patron saint of young single women, is very popular in Madrid. Every 13th of June there is a Romería. On this occasion these young women have a chance to implore the Saint to send them a suitor or pretendiente. In 1881 the church became a parish, and in 1905 was declared a National Monument to protect Goya’s paintings. When Goya painted these frescoes he was 52 and was at the height of his career. The originality of the frescoes suggests that Goya followed his own design. San Antonio de la Florida is also Goya’s final resting place. In 1919 the Spanish government recovered his remains from France, were he died, and brought them back to Spain.
Morning:
El Escorial Morning: El Escorial. This huge granite fortress, called San Lorenzo del Escorial, houses a wealth of paintings and tapestries and serves as the burial place for Spanish kings. The giant palace-monastery complex was built by Philip II (1556-1598) as a mausoleum for his father and a retreat for himself. El Escorial took only 21 years to complete (1563-1584). The master architect, Juan Bautista de Toledo, died only four years into the project and was replaced by Juan de Herrera, the greatest architect of Renaissance Spain, who completed the structure following his own style known as estilo desornamentado, which means unadorned style. Herrera stripped Renaissance buildings to their essentials. The appearance of these buildings is almost classical. Bourbon Apartments. These rooms were converted by the Bourbons, Charles III and Charles IV, into a royal residence. The apartments have been restored and their splendor contrasts with the austerity of those of the Habsburgs. Wandering from room to room, the visitor can see great examples of tapestries designed by Francisco de Goya and other 18th century artists. Particularly interesting is the Hall of Battles, with walls entirely decorated with frescoes commemorating different battles against the Moors and French. The Hall is 55 meters long, 6 meters wide and 8 meters high. Its walls are entirely covered by frescoes done between 1584 and 1590 by Italian artists. New Museums. Much of Philip II’s art collection is displayed here, including works by Titian, Veronese, Ribera, Velázquez and Durer. Although the King did not appreciate El Greco’s work, some of the artist’s paintings are part of the exhibition. Phillip II’s Apartments. These rooms are austere, almost monastic, especially compared to the Bourbon apartments. The spaces are reminiscent of Dutch interiors, with white walls and Delft-blue tile decorations. The King, who became a religious obsessive, made sure that his bed was situated right above the High Altar of the Basilica, with an opening on the wall overlooking the altar so he could always observe Mass. In the Throne Room there is a monumental doorway of inlaid wood. The design, with geometrical and architectural motifs, was based on a Flemish artist work. This piece was made of maple, walnut, beech and pear wood combined with ebony veneers. It is one of the masterpieces at El Escorial. Royal Pantheon. The primary function of El Escorial was to provide a burial place for Charles V and also for Philip II, its founder. Eventually, the pantheon began to assume a dynastic and subsequently institutional role that has lasted to this day. This is the resting place for most Spanish monarchs from Charles I to Alfonso XII. The Royal Pantheon is situated beneath the Basilica’s main altar and is a wonderful example of 17th century Baroque style. The most expensive stone from around the Mediterranean was used for its construction. The Pantheon of the Infantes, the burial place for members of the Royal families, fills corridors beyond the Royal Pantheon. These tombs are guarded by enormous white marble heralds holding maces. The sixth chamber features the famous “wedding cake”, a polygonal mausoleum built in the 19th century. It was designed to hold the remains of sixty royal babies; it is now more than half full. Don Juan, the father of Don Juan Carlos I, the current King of Spain, is the most recent addition to the Pantheon of the Infantes. The Royal Library. As its location, decoration and content suggests, the library is a royal institution, although it was also used by monks and the school. The Library houses a priceless collection of 60,000 volumes, one of the most significant in the world. It consists mainly of Philip II’s books collection which includes Latin, Greek, Hebrew and Arabic philosophical and mystical works. The Library’s decoration is as rich and complete as its collection of books. The magnificent vault in the main room displays wonderful frescoes by Pellegrino Tibaldi, a disciple of Michelangelo. The iconographic program is filled with references to knowledge, ranging from philosophy to theology and the seven liberal arts. The shelves with their Doric style are magnificent pieces of design. The base is made of red jasper and the bookcases are of tropical woods in their natural colors. The room also contains several royal portraits. Basilica and Royal Patio. The Basilica has wonderful pieces of art. The impressive “retablo” (altar piece) is 26 meters high and 14 meters wide, and is a combination of sculpture and painting. It has been painted by Italian painters such as Pellegrino Tibaldi and Federico Zuccaro. The sculptures are all in gilt-bronze and were produced in a Milan workshop. Notable are the gilded-bronze ensembles to the side of the altar, featuring the families of Charles V and Philip II, respectively. The Royal Patio gets its name from the sculptures of the six Kings of Judea which adorn the Basilica’s western façade. The west gate is the ceremonial entrance to El Escorial. To the right and left are the boys’ school and the monastery still in use. Late afternoon: Valle de Los Caídos. This is Francisco Franco’s El Escorial. Carved in the mountain, this mausoleum took 20 years to complete. It is dedicated to those who died in the Spanish Civil War. A gigantic cross, 150 meters (500 feet) high dominates the peak of the Rock of Nava in the Guadarrama Mountains. Around its base are a series of titanic sculpted figures: lions, eagles and giants. The cross is said to be the largest in the world. Directly under the cross is a basilica with a mosaic vault, completed in 1959. Buried in this basilica behind the high altar is Francisco Franco. On the opposite site lies Jose Antonio Primo de Rivera, the founder of the Falange Party and a Nationalist hero.
Morning:
Museo Reina Sofia Morning: Museo Reina Sofía. The Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofia has the greatest repository of 20th century art works in Spain. Special emphasis is paid to great artists of 20th century Spain: Juan Gris, Pablo Picasso, Salvador Dalí, and Joan Miró. Picasso’s Guernica is one of the outstanding pieces of the museum. After being banned during Franco’s era (Picasso also refused to allow it to be displayed in Spain) it hung until 1980 in the Museum of Modern Art in New York. Farewell Dinner at Botin. Founded in 1725, this is not only the oldest restaurant in Madrid, but the oldest in the world, according to the Guinness Book of Records. Hemingway called it “The best restaurant in the world.” Goya used to wash dishes here when he was 19 years old and had just arrived in Madrid from his native Zaragosa.
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